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https://www.barrons.com/articles/good-company-zeniths-new-upcycled-line-of-watch-straps-01655999965

Zenith is a watchmaking brand that was founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot. Just 22 years old at the time, he began with a  vision to create “the perfect watch.”

Favre-Jacot immediately started making watches at his small studio in Le Locle, Switzerland, and named the brand after the highest point in the sky above an astronomical observer—Zenith. 

The brand’s logo, then and now, is a five-pointed star. One of his watch designs won the Grand Prix in 1900 at the Paris Universal Exhibition, and the company employed over 2,000 workers in the early 20th century.

Zenith has seen its star-studded moments throughout the years: French pilot Louis Blériot relied on his Zenith wristwatch when he became the first person to cross the English channel in 1909, and Mahatma Gandhi was photographed wearing a Zenith watch. The brand made history in 1969, when they unveiled the world’s first automatic chronograph, called the El Primero, and in 1999, Zenith was bought by the luxury conglomerate LVMH.

Now, the luxury watchmaker has partnered with Nona Source, a fabric resale company, for a new project. Nona Source buys excess fabrics from LVMH production houses in Paris and upcycles the couture fabrics into resaleable items. Zenith uses these fabrics for interchangeable watch straps for the brand’s Defy Midnight watches.

“It’s exactly the kind of responsible, ecological yet also luxurious innovation that we seek at Zenith,” says Zenith CEO Julien Tornare. “It not only helps to upcycle luxurious materials in a new context, but also gives the Defy Midnight collection a high-fashion edge.”

The Defy Midnight watch has a face that is meant to look like the dark midnight sky speckled with stars. “Our founder had a passion for astronomy,” says Tornare, 49. “Defy Midnight is an expression of the sky on the dial.”

The watch’s strap is metal, but it comes with two upcycled straps. There are currently seven in the collection, including a white moleskin woven cotton strap, a pink denim strap, and a cream mohair strap. “Essentially, haute couture accessories have been hand-tailored using the finest fabrics, so it fits well as a watch strap,” he says.

The straps are limited to what’s available and will change over time. “That’s what makes it magical,” Tornare says. Defy Midnight was initially launched as a feminine watch at 36mm, but that has since changed to reflect the fact anyone can wear it. “It might be small in Europe or America, but in Asia, it’s a very wearable size for men. We just changed that a few weeks ago—watches for ‘men or women.’ It’s an old concept that doesn't make sense anymore. We make beautiful watches that can be worn by men or women, we’re not the one to choose. You let people choose.”

The Defy Midnight watch starts at US$11,000. Each watch comes with a metal strap and two recycled LVMH fabric straps.

Since Tornare became CEO in 2017, the brand has changed from an old school, historic brand to one that resonates with a younger audience. “We used to sell to watch geeks, watch collectors,” he says. “My question was how to open it to a wider audience.”

The brand’s average buyer is 32 years old, which is 15 years younger than its buyer was in 2017. And of course, a younger audience is much more environmentally conscious. “We are at a turning point,” he says. “More younger clients are really paying attention if a brand is socially and eco-friendly. It’s part of our responsibility.”

This is the first project where Zenith is collaborating with Nona Source, but they will continue to work with the upcycling company. “I think it’s part of our social responsibility,” Tornare says. “It should not only be a talking point, but actionable goals we can take.”

In 2021, Zenith produced roughly 20,000 watches. This year, the company plans to increase their production by roughly 15%. The brand aims to make 25,000 watches this year, but not rush the process, either. 

“We’re a luxury brand, the most important thing is the respect we have for our clients,” he says. “We need to grow organically, rather than rush and make the wrong decision.”

They also plan to phase out leather straps. “There’s more eco-friendly alternatives,” says Tornare. “People don’t want the skin of real animals on their wrist. We need to find new solutions.”

Zenith is a watchmaking brand that was founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot.

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